Union Square Cafe

Swimster and I decided to go for lunch last week on my mid-week weekend. We grabbed a coffee at Barnes and Noble, read through some magazines and newspapers, and after some stomach growling, left in search of food. The only place that sounded interesting in the area was Union Square Cafe. Sadly we showed up at 11:40 and found the sign saying "Open at noon." So, NO FOOD FOR US! The stomachs had to wait a whopping twenty more minutes and I wasn't sure if they were going to make it.

We walked around the Union Square street market to kill some time, looking for free samples of breads and jams and condiments (I love free samples), only to find the turkey sausage man, grilling up a huge pattie of turkey sausage, as big as my two hands put together. He was generous and gave us both two toothpicks' worth of sausage to whet our appetite. It was excellent (and now wishing I had taken his business card). I hope he'll be around the next time I visit.

At 12:09, we walked in to USC and the bubbly hostess greeted us with a big Cheshire cat smile. I was worried we would be slightly uncomfortable, being on a non-business lunch date, but we were welcomed with open arms. She said she could seat us in two minutes. Dang! Open for nine minutes and USC was already a "full" house. As we glanced inside at the seating areas, we noticed plenty of seats at the cozy bar and opted to chow there. (Aside: A man walked in about five minutes after us, and we couldn't figure out why, out of all the seats left, he decided to snuggle up right next to Swimster. I thought it was funny, but Swimster was not so amused. Maybe it was his new haircut or the hot shirt I ironed for him:)

photo courtesy of www.unionsquarecafe.com

The inside of USC is divided into three dining areas: one to your lower left as you walk in, the ground level behind the bar and a mezzanine level above that. The decor is bright, airy and open, making for a comfortable eating spot. The clean white walls are sprinkled with some artwork, but nothing that screams over-decoration. USC exudes simple elegance, from the floors to the staff's blue and white-striped shirts (some wore red and white striped shirts, and I couldn't decipher what the difference was, possibly personal preference). These "uniforms" were clean and smart- traits I think we all hope for in a server. The shirts were the perfect finishing touch and confirmed my liking for USC.

The bartender was extremely friendly and took great care of us. She made sure I had enough wine to last me through the end of the meal, and she approved of our lunch choices, saying they would all be pleasers. Swimster chose the fried calamari with spicy anchovy mayonnaise to start, and I chose the homemade maccheroni (no, not macaroni Kraft-style but a noodle slightly thicker than spaghetti) with lobster-tomato sauce, basil, and tangerine oil. The calamari was excellent-lightly fried and cooked just right. It was a perfect blend of soft but chewy. And the best part? The anchovy mayo. Although, now I'm scarred for life and will be requesting that everywhere I go. The pasta portion was small and just right for sampling. After eating so much homemade pasta lately (thanks to Dad and Arthur Avenue visits), I am finding it hard to revert back to eating box o' pasta. (If anyone knows a convenient place that sells homemade pasta, do tell!) The sauce was thick and rich with flavor, and they were very generous with the lobster chunks. I happily twirled lobster and noodles onto my fork as Swimster was digging in to the calamari. For my second course, I chose the tuna salad sandwich on Tom Cat (a New York City bakery) white with slab bacon, arugula, and garlic potato chips. This was one of the best sandwiches I'd ever had from top to bottom. The bread was thick with a crispy crust, worlds away from Wonderbread, and the tuna fish was the perfect consistency-not too dry but not too mayo-ey. The garlic potato chips were fresh and grispy with the perfect amount of grease, and tasted like Cape Cod chips, but better. They were made in house and I loved the fresh minced garlic. Swimster chose the slow- roasted berkshire pork shoulder on a parker house roll with mustard fruit and roasted acorn squash. I tried one moist bite of this sandwich and my eyes rolled back with pleasure. I never imagined sandwiches could make me so happy. The pork was tender and had a sweet bite to it and its juices welded it together with the roll.

If you're ever in the Union Square area and at a loss for where to eat, look no further. Union Square Cafe is an exceptional choice, and blows all of its other Union Square neighbors out of the water.

Danny Meyer, you did good. And the fact that your restaurant has been open for a little over twenty years (in this come-as-quick-as-they-go New York restaurant town) should speak for itself.

21 East 16th Street
212-243-4020