Mermaid Inn II

I forget how I heard Mermaid Inn II was coming to my SoHa (south of Harlem) crib, but when I did, I nearly did cartwheels in the street. The Mermaid Inn of the east village is one of my favorite restaurants in the city, and not because of its incredible, mind-blowing food, but because it's simple, comfortable, consistent and it makes me smile. I ate dinner there with Swimster a few years ago and thus began my love affair with the seemingly seaside refuge.

FoxyLady and I were doing our own thing on a Sunday, putzing around Lincoln Center and we decided to meet in the 70s and cruise uptown looking for a bite. We were several blocks away when it hit me that we had to try the new Mermaid Inn location. I was a little tired of the walking, but FoxyLady kept telling me, "Just a few blocks more, just a few blocks more. You can do it. Just a few blocks more."

As I expected, the place was a zoo. Of course people are banging down the hostess stand to get a table. It's the best thing since Buceo 95 that's graced SoHa's restaurant vacuum. It had nearly the same decor as its downtown sibling: crisp white walls, dark brown wooden tables and matching molding, and nautical prints checkering the walls. When you walk into the Mermaid Inn you feel like you've walked into the belly of a ship, the country club's shore room or an oceanfront restaurant. It's different from any other vibe I've felt in the city.

I had about ten pounds worth of homemade Italian pastas, cheese and stuffed peppers from Bruno Ravioli (how did I not know it existed?!) and was dying to put my bags down. When I saw two stools at the bar, I looked at FoxyLady with a pleading face and we grabbed them.

For starters we tried the fried clams with lemon and tartar and the iceberg wedge with blue cheese and radish.

I don't know my clams like my mom does-- I think she's eaten in every clam shack across the eastern seaboard-- but I couldn't stop eating these. Even the two women sitting next to us were creeping over my shoulder and wondering what all the flurry of activity was about.

This simple salad hit the spot as well. I don't even typically like radishes but they were scrumptious with the blue cheese.

"What is thaaaaaaaaaat?" asked the lady with poofy hair and funky glasses next to me. She reminded me of my high school English teacher who draped herself in baggy Chico outfits and wore rainbow-colored, beaded eyeglass holders.

"The iceberg wedge. A must for next time." I noticed they were already on the best part of Mermaid Inn's dinner, but I'll let you discover later what that is.

For my entree I tried the grilled yellowfin tuna with corona beans, capers and arugula. The tuna was excellent though a little heavily salted. My favorite part was the sweet mixture of vegetables below. They had a tangy flavor that was entirely new to me. I imagine this combo would taste good with any salt water fish.

FoxyLady tried the wild-striped bass with spicy green lentils, preserved lemon and sauteed spinach and she complained about the same problem. Her fish and the lentils were way too over-doused in salt. Salt aside, the portions were really generous and we were both stuffed after dinner. I lent her some of my beans to ease the saltiness. I'm much more of a salt 'n spice girl than she is so I was worried she'd be unhappy.

It was FoxyLady's first time to the Mermaid Inn and she had no idea we were in for a complimentary dessert treat. The Mermaid Inn grants all its patrons a little espresso cup packed with chocolate pudding and a fresh dollop of whipped cream. Not only that, but they place what's called a "miracle fish" at its side and it's amusing to take out the thin red guy, place it on the palm of your hand and watch it twist or lie flat. Depending on its movements, you are deemed in love, jealous, fickle, indifferent, passionate, etc. That evening I was mysteriously in love, with whom, is still to be determined.

Over at Frank Bruni's blog, I enjoyed his discussion about best vs. favorite restaurants. I can't afford to eat at the best restaurants in New York City all the time, so they can't truly be my favorites. Was my meal at Jean Georges the most amazing meal I've ever eaten in my life? Yes. But one night of nirvana doesn't qualify it as a favorite. A favorite is more of a local hangout, a place where you can show up any night in any attire and get satisfactory service and food in a warm and welcoming atmosphere. The Mermaid Inn has that certain je ne sais quoi and I will always count on it for a solid meal. Maybe that's what the miracle fish was trying to tell me, I was in love, with his home.

568 Amsterdam Ave, between 87th & 88th St. 212-799-7400