Gradisca

LarchmontLass works for a boutique publisher in Union Square. Our fireplace mantel and coffee table both greatly benefit from her situation -- they're constantly being decorated with an influx of hot, entertaining books of all shapes, sizes and materials. The cookbook we have is made out of a flimsy, rubbery material (like the one you sat in the tub with when you were four) so you can spill anything from Worcestshire to bearnaise, from Zinfandel to guacamole on it without so much as a flinch. Another chef-friendly read dons a sleeve made out of an apron -- how clever does it get?

My excitement about LarchmontLass' job reached its apex when a very special package came to our apartment from a very special person. LL had been slaving away on a book inspired and based on the rapper Eminem. It was her first major project and she was working around the clock like nobody I'd ever seen (until my roommate FoxyLady clocked in a few 20-hour days in preparation for Denver's DNC, which she is now at). My roommates make me feel like a slacker.

A few integral additions to the book were coming to our apartment and we all got the 411. Be on alert. Listen for the buzzer. Answer the buzzer. Ring the guy in. Retrieve the package. Sign for it. Guard it with your life.

Thank goodness LL was home when it arrived or I'm not sure I would have known what to do with it. I probably would have sat and stared at it on the kitchen table for hours or held it up to the light so I could see through to its contents.

LL opened it immediately and I was in awe. There were a couple of Polaroids of the master Eminem himself, in addition to two incredible, ink portraits of Tupac and 50 Cent by Eminem. I died. Ever since the movie "8 Mile," I've idolized the rambunctious rapper. Regardless of what you think of rap, the guy is a musical genius and after looking at his artwork, I realized he was a genius, period. I'm not a huge Tupac or 50 Cent fan, but Eminem drew something in their souls that was almost fantastical and it made me want to explore them further.

I wonder if he'd ever do my portrait. A girl can dream, can't she?

When LarchmontLass mentioned she was having a birthday dinner with co-workers and friends, I was in. FoxyLady and I met her at her office with birthday goodies and after several introductions and a glimpse into LL's daily office life, we headed to Gradisca.

I'd been hearing about Gradisca for as long as I've known LarchmontLass. LL and her work crew frequent Gradisca for happy hour and she always raves about the service, food and how special it is to be taken care of as regulars. Something told me it wasn't just your run-of-the-mill post-work hangout.

I was right.

If there was ever such thing as a food-centive or an office perk, Gradisca is it. I suggest LL's boss think about showcasing Gradisca when hiring people. If potential employees are on the fence, take them to Gradisca, offer it up as the office's preferred after hours destination and sign the deal in no time.

We walked in and were serenaded by the entire staff. Every two feet there was somebody coming out of a dark shadow, saying "Hello" and "Welcome." I felt like I was walking into the wine cellar of an Italian villa. Maybe I'd run into the Count of Monte Cristo in the bathroom. It was dark, candlelit, cavernous and inviting. The bar is to your right when you walk in and further back is the dining room with exposed brick, reddish walls and dark wooden tables. We were a pack of about 20 people and I was wondering where the heck we were going to sit.

Then I saw it.

It was a table fit for the gods of Greece and the royalty of Rome. King Arthur's knights could have sat at this table comfortably with some room to spare for shields and sheaths. It was the biggest table I'd ever seen. If you want friends to feel like a million bucks on their birthdays, take them to Gradisca and sit them at this enormous marble-top table. It rose up from the floor and stood at about four feet. It was surrounded by comfy high chairs and the whole time I just sat in awe. How had I never been here before?

No sooner had we sat down than the parade of food and booze began. They served us bottles and buckets of champagne and wine, enormous platters of fresh antipasta, warm, toasted paninis, homemade pasta and exciting desserts.


Every time I thought I eyed the last dish, another one came out. There were three pasta choices: pappardelle with a lamb ragout, a vegetarian-friendly pappardelle, and a cavatelli dish. All were amazing. One of LL's co-workers, who knows the owner of Gradisca, told me each pasta is hand-rolled by an elderly Italian woman. I don't know where they hide her but I'd love to take pasta lessons from the best kept secret in New York.

The pasta texture and temperature were flawless and the sauces were so thick and savory they could have been eaten with a fork.

As if the multiple entrees weren't enough to fill our bellies, the desserts started to come out for Miss LL. An array of gelato was served in these cute ramekins.

And the highlight here was definitely the tiramisu and flourless chocolate cake.



I couldn't stop emoting about how blown away I was by the incredible meal and the friendliness of the staff. The birthday bash was seamless. Not once was a story interrupted, a laugh broken or a smile turned upside down by frustration with the service. We were left wanting nothing, and with a party as big as we had, this was a huge feat. The drinks and water were free-flowing and the food was neverending. Everyone left happy and about 1o pounds heavier.

I read on Gradisca's Site that they named the restaurant after a character in the movie "Amarcord" who is known for her "bon vivant personality." LL's birthday was all about eating well, drinking heavily and being gregariously merry. If you seek these simple joys in life, get to Gradisca and tell Massimo Mona sent you.

126 West 13th St., between 6th & 7th Ave.
212-691-4886