Monday, October 30, 2006

Big John

Note to self: if a restaurant's name sounds in any way peculiar and not food friendly, don't eat there. I learned my lesson the hard way. When I told someone at work the name of the restaurant I took friends to she laughed in my face. "I wouldn't have gone near that place with a ten foot pole." While I appreciated her sense of humor and snarkiness, I'm still sensitive to what was a forgettable and regrettable dining experience.

The night promised to be a fun one. It started with the "Face Your Fears" haunted house, which turned out to be a disappointment. It takes about a half hour to walk through the dozen or so rooms representing some of the different "phobias" we have. I was more scared throughout the day thinking about what it would be like than I was actually walking through it. That aside, I'm still glad I tried something new.

After the haunted house we headed to dinner at, don't laugh, Big John, where I was able to get a table at the last minute for nine people. I know, but it was one of my last choices, and every other place in the area could not seat nine people at the time I wanted. Big John happens to be in the same location as what used to be one of my favorite restaurants in the city Kitchen and Cocktails. I was curious what was in its place now and if it compared at all to the beloved and missed K&C.

We walked up to the door and right away noticed a big empty restaurant. My mind and stomach were screaming, "Run for the hills!" but I knew I had called the place a couple times adding one or two people to the reservation, they were expecting us, and it would have been poor dining etiquette to bail.

Grievance #1: no greeting. We walked in and nobody said "Boo!" to us, asked us who we were, if we wanted to sit, eat, or grab a drink at the bar. We awkwardly walked up to the bar where BigBlueBabe was waiting for us. I saw a long nine-top set so I knew we were expected. After hugs and hellos, a server finally asked if we wanted to sit at our table.

Grievance #2: slow and wrong drinks. The server took our drink orders, and I couldn't quite understand why it took so long to get them. We were two feet away from the bar, it's not like he had to go on a hike to get them. We were still the only customers in the place. I ordered a dirty Goose martini, and it came without olive juice. Instead of waiting for the inattentive server, I went to the bar and asked for some "dirty" myself. Later on I heard from the far end of the table my friend KAdler ordered a rum and coke and somehow ended up with a tequila and coke. Maybe they drink that in Tijuana but I'm certain KAdler was grossed out. Not only were orders fumbled, but the server would take one drink order and zip away, not asking anyone else if they needed anything. A few times we were left ignored with our arms still raised, like we were in kindergarten waiting for the teacher to call on us. The tab would have quadrupled had our server been more aggressive with the drink orders.

Once the drinking momentum picked up and a smorgasbord of appetizers came out everything seemed fine. Friends sitting closest to me ordered ceviche. It was decent, but a little too heavy on the dressing. It was soggy and didn't taste crisp and fresh. It was as if the dressing was there to cover something up. Another friend ordered the tomato and mozzarella salad. What was odd about this was the mozzarella tasted like a tough block of Pollyo. It wasn't fresh mozzarella (a sacrilege in my family). The one good thing that came out was my bacon-wrapped scallops. The bacon wasn't too overcooked and its juices blended well with the scallops.

Dinner surprisingly came out all at once. They got something right. I ordered a tuna steak and the friend next to me ordered the surf and turf, which was supposed to be filet mignon and lobster. I got my tuna, but was more interested in what everybody else ordered around me, so I didn't notice what was sitting in front of me until I grabbed my fork to dig in. The last plate to come to the table was the surf and turf.

Grievance #3: shrimp posing as lobster. The filet Photog thought he ordered ended up being a large flat New York strip steak and where there was supposed to be lobster there were three shrimp. The server didn't flinch an inch when he placed the plate down in front of my friend. But boy, my friend flinched. He asked, "What the heck is this?" The server, who barely spoke or understood English, mentioned they ran out of lobster and were serving shrimp instead. Then came the best line of the whole night, "Would you like a few more shrimp with that?" Herein lies the problem. The server did not mention when Photog ordered the surf and turf that they didn't have lobster, which is fine. But when the order went to the kitchen the chef should have told the server, who then should have told us there was no lobster, and that would have given Photog a chance to order something else. Someone dropped the ball and we were not pleased.

Grievance #4: tuna that's not rare is not tuna. I didn't even have to cut the tuna to realize it was charred and may as well have been a swordfish steak for my mom (mom loves everything from steak to burgers to fish well done). I signaled to the server and told him I had asked for rare or still swimming. He mumbled something and took it back. The next thing I knew he came to the table with a silly frown on his face and said they were out of tuna. WHATTTT!?!? I was flabbergasted. It wouldn't surprise me had the place been hopping from floor to ceiling, but we were still the only people in the restaurant. With that I asked for the menu to order something else. "Nevermind, just make me a burger," I said. Meanwhile, my friend Photog is freaking out about the surf and turf. I'll call it shrimp and skimp. They did end up bringing out a new plate with a nicer piece of meat on it but there was nothing to be done about the lack-lobster. The server brought out a few pieces of scallops to ease the pain but it didn't make a difference. Photog had already lost his appetite, as I was getting ready to do myself.

Among all the fuss, I had gone to the manager and asked him to kindly remove the two incorrect items off the tab. He was a soft-spoken sweetheart and extremely apologetic about the whole incident. He explained they're trying to change the menu and right now they're in between menus and in between chefs. The manager was so adorable I almost offered to work for him. I probably could have done a better job than who he had working the line that night.

As I continued to sip on my martini and eat pieces of everybody else's meals, mine was still TBD. I noticed the manager step out and I was worried. A few minutes later he walked in with a small white plastic bag and I had a feeling. Did he just buy me another tuna steak? Turns out my intuition was right. This made me feel horribly guilty for making a stink, but as a friend pointed out, it's his job to make sure the kitchen has enough of everything they need and if they don't, well, it's his problem. When round two of tuna came out it was still nowhere near as raw as I would have wanted but there was no turning it back this time. I ate every last bit of it with a smile and professed my undying gratitude to the manager. If it wasn't for him, the night would have been completely ruined and I thanked him for that. In addition to him going out to get me tuna (I was still charged for it, nothing that was screwed up was on the house), the manager bought each of us a drink, which again, was extremely appreciated.

Grievance #5: sneaky large automatic gratuity with no warning. If our server had been as charismatic as George Clooney I would have doubled the gratuity. But he was miserable and we agreed undeserving of the added gratuity, which at Big John is 20%. It was outrageous, but how much more could go wrong? We couldn't get out of there fast enough.


199 Orchard St, between Houston & Stanton St
212-353-2731


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Friday, October 27, 2006

Seamless Web

I was out for my friend BridgeRunner's birthday this weekend and a bunch of us went to dinner beforehand. BigBlueBabe asked if I would blog about dinner, and of course I said yes. She then asked me why I never blogged about a site we used for delivery a couple months ago called Seamless Web. I mean to blog about every eating experience I have in the city, big or small, and this one got out from under me. So, thank you to BigBlueBabe for reminding me about our great meal off Seamless Web.

Fashionista bought an apartment recently. She's younger than I am but in the world of real estate she's all grown up. It's a great place in a great location, and it ends up being our pre-party hub. That night it was a small intimate crew: Fashionista, BigBlueBabe and myself. A couple friends were on the fence but we weren't going to hold our breaths. After some cocktails, we decided to get take-out. When Fashionista mentioned "Seamless Web" I had no idea what she was talking about. To be honest, it sounded like the farthest thing from a food delivery site.

It took us a while to figure out what we wanted. But finally someone said "Let's just do burgers," and I was sold. It didn't help that I already had a few drinks and wanted something particularly unhealthy. The process was a cinch. We clicked, we waited, we chowed. You basically go the website, enter in your home address, and it tells you what restaurants will deliver to you. You click on one of your liking, it gives you the menu, and you click away on what you want, like you're shopping on Amazon. Then, depending on how long the wait is (and it will say on the site, each restaurant is different), in walks the delivery man with your dinner. It's like magic. Well, not really, but if you're a New Yorker, you've had your fair share of delivery nightmares, and getting food lickety-split with no hassle felt like magic to me. It's a wonderful new discovery and I'm excited I can finally toss the piles of take-out menus in my apartment. When I feel like delivery, nothing ever appeals to me. Maybe because the only take-out menus we really have are from the spam menus thrown into our apartment by local restaurants desperate for business. Now I have new inspiration. Seamless is just that, seamless. And after our big and juicy burgers from New York Burger Co. - you can't go wrong with any of their signature burgers- I wished my pants had been seamless too.

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Monday, October 23, 2006

Ditch Plains

Carebear knew I was going out of town for my birthday so she suggested doing a birthday dinner the week before. Leaving town on your actual birthday is the best thing for anyone who's a birthday nut. It gives you the opportunity to endlessly prolong the birthday festivities. I was partying the week before my birthday, during my birthday week, and the week after, before I finally said enough's enough.

Carebear chose Ditch Plains for dinner. It's the latest from Marc Murphy, of Landmarc fame. The funny thing is Carebear took me to Landmarc for my birthday last year. Mr. Murphy better get his act together and open up another restaurant by the time I turn 28, so eating at his restaurants can become my birthday tradition.

I was curious where the name Ditch Plains came from and KAdler enlightened us all. She said Ditch Plains is a surfing beach in Long Island. That explains the TVs behind the bar playing black and white surfing videos, similar to a Jack Johnson concert I went to in Aspen.

You walk in to Ditch Plains and there are tall, sleek wooden booths along the right side and a bar on your left. The dining room was not cramped but it wasn't enormous either. Judging by the amount of people milling around the bar counter, you best make a reservation at DP before you go, unless you don't mind being hypnotized by the soothing surfing videos at the bar.

Somehow I had half a day to get ready for dinner, but I still managed to be late. What is wrong with me? Maybe I should think about starting a support group for this problem of mine. I'll call it ALA "Always Late Anonymous." I got out of work at around three o'clock, which is early compared to everyone else in the city, yet I ended up being nearly 25 minutes late to my own dinner. And it's not that I take forever to get ready. I wear little to no makeup, I don't curl my hair, I don't tease, and I don't do my nails. I sit around, watching TV, reading, cleaning up and then all the sudden I'm left with a half an hour to get dressed.

When I finally stormed in to Ditch Plains heaving and sweating with stress, I found Carebear, KAdler, and FoxyLady sitting at a table all smiles, waiting patiently for me. A pang of guilt and embarrassment came over me, but after a sweet wine birthday toast, it went away. Ditch Plains has a very relaxing, dark, but cool atmosphere. I was looking at the menu and was slightly confused to see breakfast fare, but I quickly learned Ditch Plains opens at 7 a.m. and serves a full menu from then on. This should be a treat for all you breakfast-any-time-of-the-day people.

For an appetizer we tried the crab dip with toasts. The bread was freshly toasted, crispy, and heavily buttered. I could have eaten the slices plain. They were that good. The dip was extra thick and had the perfect consistency : equal cheese and mayo to equal crab, rather than skimpy on the crab. And I liked how it was easy to score a big dollop of it onto your toast and it would stay put without sliding back into the bowl where it came from. The table started eating faster as the bottom of the dip bowl started to appear. If you go, definitely try the crab dip.

FoxyLady and I ordered the mussels for our entrees and we split a side of fries. My mussels came with rosemary and bacon and FoxyLady's were with chorizo and red onion. KAdler and Carebear both ordered the special that evening which was grilled cod resting on mixed greens with a sherry shallot vinaigrette. The mussels I had at Ditch Plains were the biggest mussels I've ever had. I'm not even a huge fan of mussels, at least I wasn't, until this dinner. Now I'm the mussel maniac ordering them wherever I go. The best thing about the mussels besides their size was the broth it came in. I had thick pieces of chewy (but not fatty) bacon to nibble on in between bites of mussels. The broth would have tasted great with bread but was also yummy with the fries. The fries were probably the best I'd had in the city- better than Pastis and better than Markt. Not too thin and not too thick, they were cooked to the perfect shade of golden brown and lightly salted. I tried a bite of the cod and liked it a lot. The fish was warm and tender and blended really well with the sweet vinaigrette.

I am craving another meal, specifically the one I already had, at Ditch Plains. DP had it going on from the atmosphere, to the food, to the excellent service (they could give a lesson or two to the place we ate at this weekend Big John-stay tuned for that pre-Halloween nightmare on Orchard Street). Our waiter saw us take a sip of wine and out he came from behind the bar with our chilled bottle to refill our cups. Splendid.

Who's birthday is up next?




29 Bedford St., at Downing St.
212-633-0202

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Wednesday, October 11, 2006

A Big Kahuna's Birthday

It's fall and that means cooler darker nights, brilliant rainbows of leaves, pumpkin carving, and most of all birthday season in my household. We have three down and one to go. The lineup starts with me, then my brother, then Dad and last but not least Mom's next month. My brother's was October 6, but I wasn't able to spend it with him. Happy Belated Birthday T! He's in London in the middle of National T's European Vacation. I'm sad I couldn't celebrate it with him, but after getting messages from him on the Champs Elysees, the sadness was fleeting. Dad's birthday happens to be today.

Happy Birthday Dad!

Dad's weekend birthday festivities started Sunday night (the beginning of my weekend). I escaped work and got on a train home at a decent hour. But the miracle doesn't stop there. It was one of the few times I can count on my hand that I wasn't racing down Track 15 in Grand Central Station yelling "BEEP! What the BEEP!" at the Metro North conductor for pulling out of the station a minute early, according to my watch. I arrived in New Canaan, Dad pulled up in our shiny yellow FJ Cruiser "Goldfinger," and we zipped off to enjoy a hearty Italian dinner at DiNardo's in Pound Ridge.

Monday I decided to prepare a birthday dinner for Dad. I knew I'd be heading home to the city Tuesday night and wouldn't have time to prepare a meal or relax to enjoy it. After the hefty dinner we had Sunday, I decided to go easy on us both. We'd start with a caprese salad and prosciutto, followed by a chicken Caesar salad for the main course (or any version of chicken and salad). I've gotten into countless arguments with Mom and Dad about what constitutes a "Caesar" salad. They don't seem to comprehend once you put in mozzarella, tomatoes, olives, and ranch dressing it's no longer a Caesar salad. Dad drowned his salad in ranch and I stuck to the traditional Caesar. I think I got an, "Aren't you going to put anything else in that?" but just shook my head laughing, "No, Dad." After salad, I splurged on a surprise birthday dessert.

Dad has a sweet tooth, but it's not wild like the rest of ours in the family. We melt for cookie cakes (or icebox cakes), homemade cookies, cupcakes, apple pies (actually any fruit pies), cheesecakes, key lime pies, chocolate, and the occasional SnoBall. When I was picking out a dessert for Dad I wanted it to be Italian. He likes all the fancy Italian pastries, which are well beyond my baking expertise. I stuck to something I could make and fairly easily : tiramisu.

We've eaten tiramisu in many restaurants, and I knew it would be intimidating to make one that would hold up to anything we'd eaten out, but I was willing to put in the effort. It's the thought that counts, right?

I found two recipes I managed to converge. One from Rao's Cookbook written by Frank Pellegrino and one from Every Night Italian by Giuliano Hazan. The bulk of the recipe comes from the latter. The one thing I was not able to find was the liqueur Hazan recommends Strega. Translated from Italian Strega means witch, so some crazy things must happen to people once they drink it. I used Kahlua instead, which was acceptable according to Pellegrino.

Here's what I ended up using:

(the following three ingredients are what you will end up dipping the ladyfingers in)

3 tbl light brown sugar
3 tbl instant espresso powder, or 6 cups of espresso ready-to-drink
1 tbl cocoa powder

(for the creamy mixture)

4 large yolks
5 tbl granulated sugar
3 tbl Strega liqueur, brandy, or Kahlua
2 tbl dark rum
1 container (500g) mascarpone cheese
1/3 cup heavy cream

8 ounces dry ladyfingers, also called Savoiardi

(this will be sprinkled on top of the finished product)
1/2 cup grated bittersweet chocolate

Make the coffee and pour into a bowl wide enough to use for soaking the ladyfingers in. Set it aside to cool.

Put the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Beat at a high speed until the mixture is pale yellow and forms soft ribbons. Now, this is what the book said. But I never saw any ribbons. Just beat it until it gets thick and stop. I think I walked away daydreaming about a boy and came back never having seen any ribbons.

Add the Strega (or Kahlua or brandy-if you add all three, heaven help you) and dark rum and continue mixing until well blended. Mix in the mascarpone, two to four tablespoons at a time, being careful not to overwhip or the mixture might break.

In a separate mixing bowl, whip the cream to firm peaks. Again, this lingo kills me. Just whip it until it's thick and you can steal a thick finger of whipped cream. Carefully fold it into the mascarpone mixture with a rubber spatula.

Soak the ladyfingers in the coffee, one or two at a time, allowing the liquid to penetrate them completely, and arrange half of them in a single layer in an 8 x 11 x 2 inch serving dish that is at least one and a half inches deep. Alert! DO NOT SOAK! Hold onto them for dear life, with two hands if you have to, and dip them in and out quickly. You will be amazed how fast they get soggy. Spread half of the mascarpone mixture over the ladyfingers. Cover with another layer of dipped ladyfingers and spread the remaining mascarpone mixture on top. Put the cocoa or chocolate or both in a fine-mesh strainer or sifter and sprinkle over the top.

Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours, or at least overnight. When ready to serve, cut the tiramisu into square portions with a metal spatula and place them on flat dessert plates. For a nice finishing touch, sprinkle the fresh cocoa on top before serving.

This serves about 12 people, or two for about a month.

I was pleasantly surprised, despite the bottom layer of my ladyfingers being completely soaked through in the coffee mixture. I warned Dad and he said that's how it's supposed to be. Well, yes and no. I learned my lesson too late, but Dad did seem to enjoy my tiramisu. That or he's a good faker. Since it's just him in Connecticut (Mom's in Camp Carmel), I ended up taking a lot back with me to the city. It's sitting in my fridge if anybody wants to do some sampling. Come on over. Mi casa es su casa.

Buon Compleanno Papa!

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Friday, October 06, 2006

On the house?

Several whales, seals, otters, pelicans, and rays of sunshine later I've returned home to New York. It was hard, getting on that plane, leaving Mom and Carmel behind, but I did it, and plans to return to the west coast for the Christmas holiday are already consuming me. When I cried to a friend in Seattle, he reminded me not to be sad, and that I live in the greatest city on earth, and that I should appreciate every minute of it. I promise, I am trying.

I had a wonderful week of friends and family, and one of the highlights was my birthday dinner, make that birthday night (we ended the evening with a small dance party that included everyone in the house, including our 20 pound panther of a cat Tucker). We had an incredibly tasty dinner, but the tab at the end of the evening put a slight damper on the evening. Because at least one of my family members is living in the small town of Carmel at any given time, I'm leaving out the name of the restaurant we chose for the birthday festivities. What happened isn't the end of the world in the grand scheme of things, it was just a little jarring and I'm curious how you, my foodie friends, would have responded.

When we walked in the host immediately asked us if we were fun, and I responded yes, we were having a birthday party. He then asked whose and I proudly said mine. After a tremendous amount of food and drinks, dessert came to the table. We got the apple crisp we ordered, in addition to a slice of chocolate fudge cake with a candle in it. What a nice surprise, and mom didn't even secretly ask for it. After our desserts, the host proceeded to pour us three glasses of port for the birthday festivities. Again, what a nice surprise. But the biggest surprise of all came on the tab. They had charged us for each of their birthday "treats." My mom is too friendly and didn't have the heart to bring this up with the host or our server. But having worked in multiple restaurants as a server, I knew I never charged anyone for a birthday treat my guests did not order. What would you guys have done?

TGIF.


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