Mona's Apple: A

Thursday, February 09, 2006

A

Swimster needed to study at the Columbia library, which meant he was going to be in my neck of the woods for the evening. If you haven't figured it out, we live on opposite ends of the island. If you look at the map of Manhattan we're directly catty-corner from each other (give or take about eighty blocks). This is fun for getting to know different neighborhoods, not so fun for a late night or early morning commute.

I came home one night to find my roommate JaneAusten had left her New York Magazine out on the coffee table with big circles around some restaurants we needed to try in the "Above 103rd" category. A restaurant was on the list. A restaurant was right across the street from my apartment. And next to A restaurant in the magazine JaneAusten wrote "We have to try A place!" Ok, so I'm not trying to make you guess which restaurant and I'm not trying to play "Who's on first?" either. The restaurant's name is simply A. I'm going out on a limb here and guessing it's for the A subway line, but that seems funny because that subway does not stop anywhere near the restaurant. Hmm. Maybe it's because the restaurant is a size A for small. Or the restaurant is in a room the size of an A subway car. Either way, Swimster and I decided to give this place a try and were happily surprised.

Like some other restaurants I have tried on the Upper West Side, notably Land Thai Kitchen, the space was extremely tiny. I mean, some of you lucky folks out there probably have walk-in closets bigger than A. Unfortunately, when Swimster and I travel (or go anywhere really), I'm the bag lady and he's the backpack-wearing student. Needless to say, squeezing into our seats was quite a challenge in itself. And sadly, once we gumby-ed our way into the seats, Swimster realized everyone around us was grabbing wine bottles out of plastic bags they had with them. The waitress would then come to the rescue and uncork and pour their bottles. When we inquired she kindly said, "No, we don't have wine. Everyone brings their own." So up Swimster went and made a dash for the wine store down the street. Note to self: bring wine when going to A.

I sat for a few moments in Swimster's absence looking over the menu and it didn't take me very long. Their menu is short and to the point. There are a few appetizers and a few entrees.
I chose the grilled avocado with spinach mousse in a shiitake-sesame vinaigrette. The spinach mousse was warm and smooth and when dipped in the vinaigrette took on a yummy sweetness. The warm avocado took some getting used to though. I think I would have preferred this dish more if it was served chilled, but then again, maybe that's un-Caribbean of me. Swimster chose two starters: the escargot with cilantro chile butter and pork terrine foie gras with grilled brie on top. If you're trying escargot for the first time like I was, I say best try it with the rich sauce they had at A. I loved the flavor and insist it had some salty olive tapenade action, that for me, masked the fact I was nibbling on a snail. The texture was a lot like eating a fat clam, and I surprised myself with how much I liked it. The sauce was a bit heavy for Swimster- the escargot snob. The pork terrine fois gras was another winner. I stole a few spoons of foie gras and enjoyed it with the warm bread they served. The brie and foie gras combo was a first for me. For our entrees I tried the duck breast in a mango marinade and Swimster tried the duck leg confit in a jalapeno jerk sauce. We don't normally choose such similar entrees but there really wasn't a lot to choose from. Both ducks were succulent and tender, and served with a neat cylinder of berry couscous in our respective sauces. And for the price ($10), this duck can't be beat.

I think A is great for a local last minute dinner, but its limited menu will prevent me from becoming a true regular. While I enjoyed the meal, the service and the concept- good food for bargain prices- I can't say I walked away from it dying to get back.