The Waverly Sin / Employees Only

Winette and I like to get together from time to time to paint the town red, or white, depending on our wine craving. The goal of our night a few weeks ago wasn't any different.

It had all the trappings for a good time. Our first stop was the Waverly Inn. I noticed the quaint colonial sign outside and was excited to venture in. I love old (and in this case rejuvenated) places with history. McSorley's and Chumley's are two of my favorite spots. I asked the host how long the wait for a table was and when he said 45 minutes I decided we would grab a glass of wine and go elsewhere. The Waverly Inn is in Winette's old neighborhood and I knew she would have a few great places up her sleeve.

It seemed there was too much open space in the front room of the Waverly Inn. It was an awkward amount of space that needed filling. There were some people sitting at the few tables off the front windows and the rest of the crowd was milling at or around the bar. I felt I was at the Delphic finals club at Harvard. The male patrons at the Inn upstaged the women in looks and style with their corduroy and cashmere blazers, scarves, straight-legged pants and crisp collared shirts. But these good looks did not come without a bit of intimidation. Had I known I would be in the presence of some of New York's finest, I would have reconsidered wearing my raggedy silk polka dot shirt and black jean combo.

Once I landed at the bar, the bartender asked me sharply what I wanted to drink. I asked for the wine list, and it was an obvious inconvenience for him to give it to me. God forbid I ask him to taste an unknown vintage. I quickly decided on a glass of red wine to avoid irritating him further. The glass of wine cost twelve dollars. I gave the bartender a ten dollar bill and a five, expecting change back, so I could leave him a dollar, or maybe two, just because I was in Graydon Carter's place and I didn't want to seem the cheap drunk who adhered to the old $1 per drink tip credo. The guy had the nerve to keep two dollars to himself without a flinch and throw a single back at me. The guy next to me had to help me gather up my chin and lower jaw off the floor, but I was too proud to say anything. That and I was speechless for the first time in my life. When I told Winette the story, I could read the shock and disgust on her face as well. She didn't want to tip him at all for her wine, but I insisted I'd get my revenge with the pen (or the keyboard in this case).

I wanted to get out of there as quickly as possible, but I had a full glass of wine in front of me. The solution? Chug my glass of wine, throwing all class to the wind. After the Waverly Sin, Winette and I headed for friendlier service at Employees Only. We walked for a while laughing and giggling and losing our way until Winette realized we were way past E.O. On the way back up Hudson we noticed a restaurant front with dark windows you couldn't peer into, a strange psychic sign, and an awning with hieroglyphics. When I tilted my head to the left it read E. O. We found our place.

When you walk in you pass the sleek sexy bar of Employees Only. It was long and narrow and I brushed past a few of the happy beautiful people dangling from the bar stools. Winette had been before and knew the hostess stand was behind the bar. Thank goodness I was with a pro or I would have stood lost and gazing at the dark-skinned weathered Italian bello sitting at the front.
The host asked if we wanted to sit in or out. It was a winter night but the thought of eating outside was tempting, especially when she added outside was covered and heated. Done and done. She walked us up the stairs, through the main dining room and out to the dreamy patio. Lights, candles and wrought iron chairs filled the dimly-lit space and I was in an outdoor eating enthusiast's Eden. Winette snapped a few pictures with her cell phone, and though dark, you can still get the idea. I think the words, "Oh my God, this is so cool!" were spoken every other sentence for our first ten minutes there.



You might think a place with the name "Employees Only" would be snobby and pretentious. I know I expected that, but this was far from the case. The bartender at Waverly should take etiquette classes from the team at E.O. Everyone from the maitre d' to our server was warm, friendly and gracious. It's amazing the difference a few blocks makes.



Winette and I started with the chestnut and potato dumplings, with sauteed mushrooms. Just thinking about the taste of these warm chewy gobs of goodness is making me salivate. I've never tasted anything like them and I am getting the urge to go back for another fix. Winette isn't a fan of mushrooms and when we asked for them on the side it was not a problem. For her entree, Winette chose the cold mezze platter, or loads of hummus, warm bread, and olives. The hummus was the perfect thickness. I chose the salmon for my main meal. A man who wasn't our server came to the table to show me my salmon before they cooked it, which was a nice touch. Most of my attention was focused on him rather than the salmon but that's besides the point. My only complaint was that it was undercooked. For some reason I like raw tuna but a rare salmon steak tastes wrong to me.



For dessert we tried the flourless chocolate cake with peanut brittle mousse on top. Just look at the tower of mousse on that thing! Nothing is better than a peanut - chocolate combo and this was heaven on a spoon. Winette and I never bicker but a spoon fencing bout ensued over the last bite. Unguard!

A night that started out on a sour note ended on a sweet one, but no thanks to the wine at the Waverly Inn. A lump of coal goes to the bartender at the Inn, and a stocking filled with goodies goes to Employees Only.

Waverly Inn
16 Bank St., at Waverly Place
212-243-7900

Employees Only
510 Hudson Street, between Christopher and West
212-242-3021